~Regency Wednesday~ Walking Dress for May 1815

Hello, my lovelies! It's time for another Regency Wednesday post. I've selected a fashion plate this time from the May 1815 issue of Ackermann's Repository. Enjoy! ♥ 

  "High dress, made in cambric muslin, with deep full flounces richly worked on French cambric; a deep falling frill round the neck, to correspond. Pelisse, open, with falling collar, composed of green sarsnet, lined throughout with sarsnet of straw colour; the bottom of the sleeve trimmed with a double frill of the same; a double border of corresponding coloured trimming laid on the cuff and round the pelisse. Bonnet of straw-coloured satin, edged and trimmed with green stain ribbon, and ornamented either with a cluster of flowers or a small plume of feathers. Sandals of green kid; gloves to correspond. Parasol of straw-coloured silk."*

Funny thing, this dress makes me think of a frilly nightgown with a green robe. :) 

*Taken verbatim from Ackermann's Repository, 1815, p. 297. Get the Google e-book HERE. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Evanescence ~ Lithium

~Regency Wednesday~ English Dinner Dress 1824

I think it's time for another gorgeous fashion plate, don't you? How about this pretty little number from 1824? I can't even tell you how much I adore this dress. ♥

DINNER DRESS.

  DRESS of emerald green gros de Naples; corsage plain, and bordered at the top with a satin band of the same colour, and a narrow tucker of tulle: the sleeve is very short and full, and composed of crèpe lisse; the fulness regulated by pryamidal bands of gros de Naples, and finished in a double satin band round the arm. A very novel kind of flounce ornaments the bottom of the skirt, which is cut nearly a quarter of a yard up, and a fulness of crèpe lisse introduced, and formed into a regular row of demi-bells, the lower part kept extended by two satin pipings, and the top of each surmounted with a double satin circlet and a triplet of satin leaves appliquée. Fichu of crèpe lisse, edged with satin piping, and trimmed all round with narrow blond, confined at the shoulders with corded leaves, and arranged in front to form a stomacher, the points coming below the ceinture, which is also edged with satin and blond, and unites behind in a leaf rosette with the corner of the fichu. The hair is separated in front, and a pearl comb confines it on each side from the temple; round the back of the head it is arranged in large regular curls. Ear-rings and necklace of rubies. White kid gloves; white satin shoes; India shawl.

*Clipped from Ackermann's Repository, April 1824, p. 242. Get the Google e-book HERE.

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Sixx: A.M. ~ Life is Beautiful 

~Regency Wednesday~ Opera Dress for February 1823

A little late but that’s better than never, right? ☺

I recently saw an article* about a woman who hand-stitched a Regency ball dress for a ball she was planning to attend in Bath. Her gown is exquisite and took her a mere EIGHT MONTHS to complete. There’s so much to admire in that. ♥  

Naturally, that led me to the fashion magazines for today’s post. This opera dress is clipped from La Belle Assemblée, February 1823. I’m so in love with this dress that if I chose to replicate one, it would be THIS GOWN. ♥ 

No. I.—OPERA DRESS.

  This elegant dress is formed of Cerulean blue satin, or gros de Naples, with a rich border, composed of satin puffs folded in bias, beautifully finished by broad satin rouleaux, The body is made low, but chastely correct, affording only a partial display of the bust, while the shoulders are covered; a tucker of the very finest specimen of URLING’S PATENT LACE, serves also as a modest shield, and the short sleeves are trimmed next to the elbow, with the same material; these sleeves are formed of bias-folded puffings, to answer the trimming at the border of the dress. The hair is arranged in a peculiar, but very beautiful and becoming manner; it is partly à la madonna, but finishes from the temples in the Sevigné style, and is crowned with an Inca diadem comb of fine pearls, placed in the Peruvian style, very backward. The other jewellery ornaments consist of a double gold chain, with opera class depending, set round with pearls, and pearl ear-rings. The figure represents a lady seated on a Persian lounge, in the opera tea-room, where every part of the dress is displayed to advantage; the shoes are of white satin, and the dress is made rather full, and of a moderate length.**

*Read the article on hand-sewing a Regency gown HERE. 

**Clipped from La Belle Assemblée, February 1823, p. 81. Get the Google e-book HERE. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Staind ~ Home 

~Regency Wednesday~ English Ball Dress, 1829

I bought rollerskates recently. They're black with black and pink wheels and pink laces. Yeah...I've had black and pink on the brain lately. Needless to say, I went a little nuts when I saw this frilly little number in the 1829 edition of Ackermann's Repository of Fashion. Perhaps a bit too frilly for my personal tastes, but still very pretty. ☺ 

BALL DRESS.

  Rose colour Parisian gauze dress over a slip of the same colour; the body is longitudinally full at the upper part and plain beneath; it is very low on the shoulders and straight across the bust, a perpendicular rose colour satin rouleau, entwined with narrow black velvet, ornaments the front, and a similar cordon rises from the centre of the waist, and spreads over the shoulders at the edge of a beautiful trimming of plumes de paon, formed of feathers and spiral gauze riband. The sleeves are short and full and finished with a satin rouleau, entwined with black velvet and a triple bow of black and rose colour gauze riband. The skirt is set on full, and has two flounces of the same light material as the dress, nearly a quarter of a yard in depth, ornamented en plumes de paon, headed by a double rose colour satin rouleau, entwined by narrow black velvet. The flounces commence about half way up the skirt and nearly in front with a rosette bow of black and rose colour gauze riband, and strings of the same attach it to the ceinture; the flounces have a very graceful effect as they turn off circularly to the left side of the dress; satin rouleau at the termination of the skirt. 

  Hair dressed in ringlets in front, and drawn up behind to the top of the head, where it is arranged in large bows, and interspersed with bows of silvered rose colour riband.

  Pearl ear-rings and necklace, with a diamond clasp in front; bracelets en suite, and small gold ones beneath, both worn outside the gloves, which are of white kid. 

  Rose colour satin shoes and sandals. 

*Clipped from Ackermann's Repository of Fashion, April 1829. Get the e-book HERE.

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Staind ~ The Corner

~Regency Wednesday~ Promenade Costume, Oct 1812

On this chilly, overcast Michigan morning, I felt this bright ensemble would lend a bit of cheer. ♥

PLATE 26.--PROMENADE COSTUME.

  A PLAIN muslin robe, finished at the bottom with a border of needlework, long full sleeves, and formed high in the neck, with simple collar, confined in the center of the throat with a topaz broach, and buttoned down the bosom; an amber-coloured sash, tied in irregular bows and ends in front of the figure. A rosary and cross of the coquilla nut. A lappelled cloak, of bright amber or yellow crape, faced with satin, and edged with fluted ribband of the same colour. A Wellington hat of straw, trimmed with white ribband. Gloves and shoes of yellow kid.* 

*Clipped from Ackermann's Repository, October 1812. Get the Google e-book HERE.

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ FFXIII-2 ~ Endless Paradox

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashion for November 1818

For your viewing pleasure, I've found a pretty little walking dress from the November 1818 issue of La Belle Assemblée. Enjoy! ♥

No. 1.—WALKING DRESS.

  Garter purple poplin pelisse, ornamented with black velvet: Mary Scot bonnet of garter purple reps silk, ornamented at the edge with a cordon of purple and black flowers, and surmounted by a full plume of tropic birds' feathers, variegated in black and purple. Fan cornette placed under the bonnet; and Castillian double ruff worn under the black velvet cape of the pelisse. Waterloo half-boots of garter purple and black; and lemon-coloured kid gloves.*

Though I quite like this ensemble, I don't care much for the lemon yellow gloves. lol

*Clipped and taken verbatim from La Belle Assemblée, November 1818. Get the Google e-book HERE. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Linkin Park ~ KRWLNG

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for July 1823

I must apologize for how lax I've become in my Regency Wednesday posts. I can give you all kinds of excuses—I mean, who couldn't?—but I'll spare you most of them. I recently had a new release, which you already know, and I always get a little weird in my head after that. I'm bouncing back now and will endeavor to get back on some kind of regular posting schedule. ☺ 

All that said, here is a Regency tidbit for your viewing enjoyment.... 

I just love this pretty little gown I found in the July 1823 issue of La Belle Assemblée: 

 GRAND MUSICAL MEETING DRESS
 LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE, JULY 1823 

And the description, taken verbatim from the magazine....

No. 1.—GRAND MUSICAL MEETING DRESS.

  DRESS of white crepe lisse or fine net, trimmed at the border with puffings of crape, confined by rich fancy trimming; the hem is finished by a row of blond lace of a Vandyck pattern. Over the crape puffings is a serpentine wave of plaited net, in the centre of which is a rouleau of white satin; between each wave is a full blown rose of Provence, with green foliage. The corsage is Iberian, and is of white satin, enriched in front in the stomacher style, with large pearls. The short sleeves are of net, and are simply ornamented with one small rose on the outside of the arm, and the sleeve finished round the arm with Vandyck lace. The hair is arranged partly in the style of the portraits painted by Vandyck, but more elevated on the summit of the head; beneath the braid which forms this elevation, and in front of it, is placed a superb Mexican diadem of topazes, turquoise stones, and pearls; and on the back of the head, on the right side, a splendid comb of gold, with regal points; on the left side of the hair is a full blown rose. The ear-rings are composed of turquoise stones and pearls; the necklace is formed of one row of very large Oriental pearls, with a convent cross lying just above the tucker, which is very narrow, and of Vandyck lace. The shoes are white satin, and the gloves white kid.

*La Belle Assemblée, July 1823. Get the Google e-book HERE. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Macy Gray ~ I Try 

~Regency Wednesday~ Half-Mourning

Half-mourning was about halfway through the mourning period, the point when the one in mourning stopped wearing black and switched to gray or lavender with black trim or accents. Half-mourning was considered a transition to wearing colors again.

Again, this affected ladies more than gentlemen, simply because the gentlemen wore black much of the time anyway.

For details on wills, funerals, or mourning, you can check out two of my previous Regency Wednesday posts: Funerals and Wills; Mourning. Both include links to other sites for more details on these subjects.

For detailed descriptions of the fashions shown here, see the matching Google Books clipping below.

↓

*Images and description clipped from Ackermann's Repository, Jan 1819, p. 52. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Daughtry ~ Breakdown

~Regency Wednesday~ Mourning

To go along with last week's post on funerals and wills, this week's post is about mourning customs and mourning attire. 

The mourning period differed depending on which relative died. The longest period of mourning was reserved for a spouse, 12 months. Half that time (6 months) was spent mourning a parent or a parent-in-law. Half again (3 months) for a brother or sister, uncle or aunt. Six weeks of mourning was for a sister-in-law (brother-in-law too, I assume), aunt or uncle (I wonder if this was for an aunt or uncle by marriage, rather than blood; one source suggests closeness to the aunt or uncle as a possible reason for the repetition). For three weeks one would mourn the loss of an uncle or aunt (now I'm just confused), an aunt who remarried, or a first cousin. Two weeks was considered the proper length of time to mourn a first cousin (not sure on the redundancy here), and one week of mourning was acceptable for a first and second cousin, and husband or stepmother's sister.

It sounds as though the mourning periods were a bit flexible when it came to more distant relatives.

During this period of mourning, black was worn and the one grieving wouldn't attend entertainments. According to several sources, crêpe or silk bombazine were the materials of choice for their matte finish. Jet or black amber jewelry could be worn, also acceptable due to their matte finish. Dying gowns black or trimming clothing with black were common practices for mourning, especially if one couldn't afford to purchase new mourning clothes. Ladies went about in black until a period of half-mourning, or second mourning, was reached. Then grays and lavenders were acceptable.

Gentlemen typically wore black anyway so they weren't held to such strict rules when it came to mourning attire. Black gloves, cravat, shirt, or an armband were the norm.

In my Regency serial, My Lady Coward, Maria must don mourning. (She hates jet.) She would have had to mourn for six months, though her grief went much deeper than simply observing proper etiquette.

In The 11th Commandment, the serial Regency I'm writing for InD'tale Magazine, the story opens just after the death of the Duke of Jarvis. His widow returns to England for the reading of the will and she was so rushed to arrive and get the visit over with that she didn't have time to have mourning clothes made. She settled for the darkest colors in her wardrobe, though, out of respect.

My fictional character, the Duke of Derringer, wears all black all the time. More than one of his acquaintances commented on him going about in constant mourning.

*Images clipped from the December 1817 edition (starting on p311) of Ackermann's Repository. Further reading can be found at Jane Austen's World: Regency Mourning; Regency Reader: Reader Questions: Funeral Rites; Donna Hatch: Regency Mourning Customs; Victoriana Magazine: Regency Mourning Fashions; Austen Authors: Mourning and Burial Practices in the Regency.

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Hinder ~ I Don't Wanna Know

~Regency Wednesday~ Court Dress

Court dress is mentioned in many Regency romances, though I've never personally worried much about including that particular aspect of the Regency upper classes in my own books. However, it was a part of many a debutante's first Season, in which she was presented to the Queen of England. 

The clipped image below is of the Marchioness of Townshend in full court dress in 1806. 

The issue of La Belle Assemblée this was taken from includes a biographical sketch of Lady Townshend. If you'd like to read about her, you can find the Google eBook HERE. She is featured on page 16.

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ FFXIII-2 ~ Lightning's Theme - Unprotected Future - 

~Regency Wednesday~ Winter Fashion, 1814

For today's Regency Wednesday post, I've selected a fashion print from the January 1814 issue of Ackermann's Repository. This is probably much closer to what a lady might have worn to the Frost Fair held on the River Thames in February the same year. (Wish I'd found this magazine for that post. lol) 

You may recall my post on the Frost Fair of 1814. I complained in that about my inability to find a fashion print for the time and selected one from La Belle Assemblée, 1807. I don't know why I didn't think to search for Ackermann's prints. My apologies. 

---

PLATE 4. —PROMENADE COSTUME. 

  A PLAIN cambric robe, with long gathered sleeve and high arched collar, trimmed with net lace or muslin. A Spanish lapelled coat of fine orange Merino cloth; full epaulette ornaments on the shoulders: the whole lined throughout with white sarsnet, and trimmed with a raised border of white velvet or swansdown. A small, provincial bonnet of the same material as the coat, ornamented with a full curled ostrich feather. White spotted ermine or Chinchilli muff. Gloves grey or light blue kid. Half-boots of orange-coloured jean, or velvet.

*Image and text clipped from Ackermann's Repository, 1814, p.56. Full eBook can be found HERE.

---

This is the first time I've seen "Chinchilli" as a possibility for the muff. I had chinchillas when I was young and they make delightful pets. It's also the first I've seen half-boots made of dyed jean. All in all, researching this post was far more enlightening than I anticipated. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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♫♪ Vertical Horizon ~ Shackled

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for December 1819

♫ Now playing in Jaimey's mind: Sarah McLachlan ~ Fear ♫ 

Plate 36. —Walking Dress. 

  A pelisse composed of kerseymere: the colour is a peculiar shade of grey; it is lined with white sarsnet. The body is tight to the shape, the waist is rather long, and the sleeve is set in so as to just touch the point of the shoulder: the sleeve is wide and falls very much over the hand. The skirt is moderately full, meets before, and fastens down on the inside. The trimming is composed of ruby-coloured velvet; it is of a new pattern, and exceedingly rich and elegant; it goes round the bottom, and up each of the fronts. The epaulettes and cuffs correspond with the trim. High standing collar, trimmed in a similar manner. Head-dress, a bonnet composed of ruby velvet, intermixed with levantine: the crown is made of folds of these two materials, so disposed as to form a point in the centre, which has a light and novel effect: the brim is large, and of a singular but becoming shape; it is finished at the edge by a rich roll of ruby levantine, to which is attached a full fall of blond lace, set on narrow towards the ears, and broad in the middle of the brim: this style of trimming adds much softness to the countenance. A high plume of ostrich feathers, to correspond, is placed upright in front, and a rich ribbon ties it under the chin. Gloves to correspond with the pelisse. Half-boots, the lower part of black leather, the upper part grey levantine. 

*Taken verbatim from Ackermann's Repository, December 1819. 

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for December 1813

~♥♥~ Now playing in my head: Kid Beyond, I Shall Be Free ~♥♥~ 

Plate 40. —Promenade or Carriage Costume 

  This dress, when divested of the spencer, or jacket, exhibits the 

Evening or Opera Costume, Plate 41. 

 In order to render these commodious habiliments the more clearly understood by our readers, we shall commence with a description of the Evening or Opera Costume: which consists of a round robe of morone or crimson-coloured Merino, kerseymere, or queen's cloth, ornamented round the bottom and up the front with a fancy gold embroidered border. The bodice is composed of satin, or velvet of the same colour, trimmed round the bosom and sleeves with gold braid and narrow swansdown; the front of the bodice richly ornamented with gold and pearl buttons. A gold band or pearl and diamond clasp confine the bottom of the waist, with a gold frog pending on each side, inclining towards the back of the figure. The robe is laced behind with gold cord. Hair disposed in dishevelled curls, falling on the left side, and decorated with clusters of variegated autumnal flowers. Necklace, composed of a treble row of pearl, white cornelian, or the satin bead, confined in front with a diamond clasp. Ear-rings and bracelets to correspond. Slippers, of crimson velvet, ornamented with gold fringe and rosettes, though we recommend those of white satin in preference. White kid gloves, below the elbow. Fan, of richly frosted silver crape. 

*Taken verbatim from Ackermann's Repository, 1813.

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for September 1807

None of my books take place in 1807 but when I came across this fashion plate while perusing the 1807 edition of La Belle Assemblée, I fell in love. I'm not normally a big fan of the Regency plates from the fashion magazines, not really, but this one...I really like this one for some reason. So here's the plate with the description from the magazine itself. Enjoy!!    

English Costume.

No 1. --Evening Dress 

A round train dress of India muslin, embroidered in a fancy border of needle-work at the feet. The stock bosom, ornamented with white beads. A full Spanish short sleeve, over a plain one of white satin. A scolloped* lace tucker, placed strait round the bosom. Circassian scarf of gold, chambrey, or lace, crossing the back, and gathered in front of the left shoulder into an emerald brooch, reaching to the feet, finished with a gold tassel, and occasionally formed into drapery by the attitude of the right hand. The hair tastefully disposed in bands and curls; and a small ostrich feather crossing the crown towards the right side, is fastened to the hair with an emerald stud. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of pearl with emerald clasps. White kid gloves and shoes.

No 2. --Evening Walking Dress 

A plain round gown of jaconet muslin, a walking length, simply ornamented with rows of open-hems round the bottom. A plain square bosom sitting close to the form, laced up the front, and trimmed at the edge with twisted muslin. A large straw hat of the Gipsy form, tied across the crown with a silk handkerchief. Deep Vandyke stock, of lace or needle-work. A black lace or Chinese shawl, thrown in irregular negligence over the shoulders. Straw-coloured kid gloves and shoes. White sarsnet parasol, deeply fringed, and painted in historical devices.**

*Typo? Or did they actually spell "scalloped" that way in 1807? lol
**Taken verbatim from La Belle Assemblée, September 1807, page 113. 

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashion for April 1818

English Evening Dress. 

Castillian robe of pearl grey sarsnet, elegantly trimmed with pink satin, interspersed with crape and velvet: the petticoat worn under the dress is finished by a border of fine lace, which just appears below the robe: the sleeves are of fine figured net, with serpentine waves of rolled pink satin, continued close to the wrist, from whence depend two broad frills of blond made to fall over the knuckles. A fichu of the finest net, left open in front, and surmounted by a deep Spanish ruff, standing up à-l' Elizabeth. Crown turban of white satin, net, and pearls, with tassels of the latter material, and crowned near the summit with a wreath of pink fancy flowers, and pearls. Pear pearl earrings, white crape fan, and white satin shoes. 

French Court Dress. 

White satin petticoat, trimmed round the border with a chevaux-de-frieze of crape, over which is a rich ornament of full blown roses; the sleeves full, and reaching near the elbow, terminating by two full rows of lace: the body made to display the bust, very low behind, and ornamented with crape en (eu?) chevaux-de-frieze. Train of royal purple or Prussian blue satin, superbly trimmed with fine broad lace, and lined throughout with white satin. The hair dressed round the face in ringlets à-la-Ninon, and entirely divided from the forehead; the hair raised in two rows of separate braids, twisted round with pearls; between these braids is a tiara of gold and pearls, to which are fastened the court lappets of the finest Brussels lace. Earrings and chain necklace of pearls, white satin shoes, and white kid gloves, ornamented at the tops with a rich embossment of white satin.

*Taken verbatim from La Belle Assemblée, April 1818, page 132.

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for April 1820

One of the many novels I'm writing takes place during the Season of 1820. Here is a glimpse into the fashion for that year. 

Fashions for April, 1820. 

Explanation of the prints of fashion. 

No. 1--Evening Dress. 

Round dress of black crape, over a black satin slip; the dress made with a demi-train, and ornamented round the border with three fluted flounces of crape, each flounce headed by a superb embroidery of small jet beads and bugles. Corsage à Louis Quatorze, ornamented with jet bugles to correspond. Tucker of white crape in folds, fastened in puff divisions by bows of white love. The head adorned with the regal coronet turban.*

*La Belle Assemblée, April 1820, page 132.

~Regency Wednesday~ 1816 Riding Dress

Fashions for June, 1816 

Riding Dress 

"Of fine blue Merino cloth, embroidered and ornamented round the bust and cuffs in a novel and unique style. This new equestrian costume, by fastening on the back of the shoulder, preserves all the contour of the form, which habits, in general, are apt to destroy. A full double ruff of fine Vandyke lace is separated from the shirt collar by a Chinese silk handkerchief of blue and white. Small round hat of fine beaver or of moss-silk. Half boots of blue kid; with Limerick gloves worked and seamed with blue."*

*La Belle Assemblée, June 1816, page 224

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for May 1819

The book I'm currently writing, Temptation, takes place during the Season, 1819. To that end, here is a glimpse of the fashions for May.

ENGLISH. No. 1.--Walking Dress.
Pelisse of light fawn-coloured twilled sarsnet, or satin, elegantly ornamented with trimming of the same en languettes, each languette beautifully ornamented with a rich yet light trimming of pink and black, with ornamental buttons. Large promenade bonnet of light fawn-colour, trimmed to correspond with the pelisse, and worn over a cornette of fine lace. Fawn-coloured satin sandal boots, and Limerick gloves.*

*Taken from La Belle Assemblée, 1819

~Regency Wednesday~ March 1818

English fashion for March 1818: 

Winter Carriage Costume. Round dress of fine cambric muslin, superbly embroidered round the border in three distinct rows. Pelisse of rich Tobine silk striped, of Christmas holly-berry colour and bright green grass, trimmed round the collar, cuffs, and down the front with very broad swansdown. Cambridge hat of green satin, ornamented with white ribband, edged with holly-berry red, surmounted by a very full plume of white ostrich feathers. Triple ruff of fine lace; holly-berry velvet ridicule, with clasp and ornaments of gold. Limerick gloves, and white kid half boots.*

*La Belle Assemblée, March 1818.

~Regency Wednesday~ 1818 Fashion

In honor of the upcoming release of my 5th novel, Deception, "Regency Wednesday" will be dedicated to anything and everything related to Deception. The story takes place in London, 1818, early in the Season.

Today's post is the fashion of the time, specifically the summer fashions.

Pictured here are two fashion plates from the July issue of La Belle Assemblée.

Descriptions as taken from La Belle Assemblée:

"Summer Recess Ball Dress. Frock of white crape, Venetian gauze, or fine net, richly embellished at the border with small double Indian roses of a beautiful pink colour, and mingled with leaves of crape and pearls: the body finished in the Oriental style, with short sleeves, which approach nearer to the elbow than formerly, and which are finished by a trimming of broad blond. The head-dress consists of a double wreath of Indian roses, interspersed with the braids of hair that are wound round the summit of the head. White satin shoes and white kid gloves."

"Parisian Bonnets. Fig.1 represents transparent bonnets of crape or net, crowned with bouquets of flowers, and trimmed at the edges with broad blond and a cordon or flowers. Fig.2 represents bonnets of satin or gros de Naples, both white and coloured, crowned with a profusion of lilacs or small double poppies."

*La Belle Assemblée, 1818 (Google book)
**Disclaimer: I wrote Deception in 2003. Since writing it, I have learned more about the specific time in which it takes place. While the biggest of these flaws I have tried to correct, I may have missed some of the smaller ones.