~Regency Wednesday~ Opera Dress for February 1823

A little late but that’s better than never, right? ☺

I recently saw an article* about a woman who hand-stitched a Regency ball dress for a ball she was planning to attend in Bath. Her gown is exquisite and took her a mere EIGHT MONTHS to complete. There’s so much to admire in that. ♥  

Naturally, that led me to the fashion magazines for today’s post. This opera dress is clipped from La Belle Assemblée, February 1823. I’m so in love with this dress that if I chose to replicate one, it would be THIS GOWN. ♥ 

No. I.—OPERA DRESS.

  This elegant dress is formed of Cerulean blue satin, or gros de Naples, with a rich border, composed of satin puffs folded in bias, beautifully finished by broad satin rouleaux, The body is made low, but chastely correct, affording only a partial display of the bust, while the shoulders are covered; a tucker of the very finest specimen of URLING’S PATENT LACE, serves also as a modest shield, and the short sleeves are trimmed next to the elbow, with the same material; these sleeves are formed of bias-folded puffings, to answer the trimming at the border of the dress. The hair is arranged in a peculiar, but very beautiful and becoming manner; it is partly à la madonna, but finishes from the temples in the Sevigné style, and is crowned with an Inca diadem comb of fine pearls, placed in the Peruvian style, very backward. The other jewellery ornaments consist of a double gold chain, with opera class depending, set round with pearls, and pearl ear-rings. The figure represents a lady seated on a Persian lounge, in the opera tea-room, where every part of the dress is displayed to advantage; the shoes are of white satin, and the dress is made rather full, and of a moderate length.**

*Read the article on hand-sewing a Regency gown HERE. 

**Clipped from La Belle Assemblée, February 1823, p. 81. Get the Google e-book HERE. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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~Regency Wednesday~ Fashion for November 1818

For your viewing pleasure, I've found a pretty little walking dress from the November 1818 issue of La Belle Assemblée. Enjoy! ♥

No. 1.—WALKING DRESS.

  Garter purple poplin pelisse, ornamented with black velvet: Mary Scot bonnet of garter purple reps silk, ornamented at the edge with a cordon of purple and black flowers, and surmounted by a full plume of tropic birds' feathers, variegated in black and purple. Fan cornette placed under the bonnet; and Castillian double ruff worn under the black velvet cape of the pelisse. Waterloo half-boots of garter purple and black; and lemon-coloured kid gloves.*

Though I quite like this ensemble, I don't care much for the lemon yellow gloves. lol

*Clipped and taken verbatim from La Belle Assemblée, November 1818. Get the Google e-book HERE. 

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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~Regency Wednesday~ Court Dress

Court dress is mentioned in many Regency romances, though I've never personally worried much about including that particular aspect of the Regency upper classes in my own books. However, it was a part of many a debutante's first Season, in which she was presented to the Queen of England. 

The clipped image below is of the Marchioness of Townshend in full court dress in 1806. 

The issue of La Belle Assemblée this was taken from includes a biographical sketch of Lady Townshend. If you'd like to read about her, you can find the Google eBook HERE. She is featured on page 16.

♥Happy reading, writing, and blogging!!♥

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~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for September 1807

None of my books take place in 1807 but when I came across this fashion plate while perusing the 1807 edition of La Belle Assemblée, I fell in love. I'm not normally a big fan of the Regency plates from the fashion magazines, not really, but this one...I really like this one for some reason. So here's the plate with the description from the magazine itself. Enjoy!!    

English Costume.

No 1. --Evening Dress 

A round train dress of India muslin, embroidered in a fancy border of needle-work at the feet. The stock bosom, ornamented with white beads. A full Spanish short sleeve, over a plain one of white satin. A scolloped* lace tucker, placed strait round the bosom. Circassian scarf of gold, chambrey, or lace, crossing the back, and gathered in front of the left shoulder into an emerald brooch, reaching to the feet, finished with a gold tassel, and occasionally formed into drapery by the attitude of the right hand. The hair tastefully disposed in bands and curls; and a small ostrich feather crossing the crown towards the right side, is fastened to the hair with an emerald stud. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of pearl with emerald clasps. White kid gloves and shoes.

No 2. --Evening Walking Dress 

A plain round gown of jaconet muslin, a walking length, simply ornamented with rows of open-hems round the bottom. A plain square bosom sitting close to the form, laced up the front, and trimmed at the edge with twisted muslin. A large straw hat of the Gipsy form, tied across the crown with a silk handkerchief. Deep Vandyke stock, of lace or needle-work. A black lace or Chinese shawl, thrown in irregular negligence over the shoulders. Straw-coloured kid gloves and shoes. White sarsnet parasol, deeply fringed, and painted in historical devices.**

*Typo? Or did they actually spell "scalloped" that way in 1807? lol
**Taken verbatim from La Belle Assemblée, September 1807, page 113. 

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashion for April 1818

English Evening Dress. 

Castillian robe of pearl grey sarsnet, elegantly trimmed with pink satin, interspersed with crape and velvet: the petticoat worn under the dress is finished by a border of fine lace, which just appears below the robe: the sleeves are of fine figured net, with serpentine waves of rolled pink satin, continued close to the wrist, from whence depend two broad frills of blond made to fall over the knuckles. A fichu of the finest net, left open in front, and surmounted by a deep Spanish ruff, standing up à-l' Elizabeth. Crown turban of white satin, net, and pearls, with tassels of the latter material, and crowned near the summit with a wreath of pink fancy flowers, and pearls. Pear pearl earrings, white crape fan, and white satin shoes. 

French Court Dress. 

White satin petticoat, trimmed round the border with a chevaux-de-frieze of crape, over which is a rich ornament of full blown roses; the sleeves full, and reaching near the elbow, terminating by two full rows of lace: the body made to display the bust, very low behind, and ornamented with crape en (eu?) chevaux-de-frieze. Train of royal purple or Prussian blue satin, superbly trimmed with fine broad lace, and lined throughout with white satin. The hair dressed round the face in ringlets à-la-Ninon, and entirely divided from the forehead; the hair raised in two rows of separate braids, twisted round with pearls; between these braids is a tiara of gold and pearls, to which are fastened the court lappets of the finest Brussels lace. Earrings and chain necklace of pearls, white satin shoes, and white kid gloves, ornamented at the tops with a rich embossment of white satin.

*Taken verbatim from La Belle Assemblée, April 1818, page 132.

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for April 1820

One of the many novels I'm writing takes place during the Season of 1820. Here is a glimpse into the fashion for that year. 

Fashions for April, 1820. 

Explanation of the prints of fashion. 

No. 1--Evening Dress. 

Round dress of black crape, over a black satin slip; the dress made with a demi-train, and ornamented round the border with three fluted flounces of crape, each flounce headed by a superb embroidery of small jet beads and bugles. Corsage à Louis Quatorze, ornamented with jet bugles to correspond. Tucker of white crape in folds, fastened in puff divisions by bows of white love. The head adorned with the regal coronet turban.*

*La Belle Assemblée, April 1820, page 132.

~Regency Wednesday~ 1816 Riding Dress

Fashions for June, 1816 

Riding Dress 

"Of fine blue Merino cloth, embroidered and ornamented round the bust and cuffs in a novel and unique style. This new equestrian costume, by fastening on the back of the shoulder, preserves all the contour of the form, which habits, in general, are apt to destroy. A full double ruff of fine Vandyke lace is separated from the shirt collar by a Chinese silk handkerchief of blue and white. Small round hat of fine beaver or of moss-silk. Half boots of blue kid; with Limerick gloves worked and seamed with blue."*

*La Belle Assemblée, June 1816, page 224

~Regency Wednesday~ Fashions for May 1819

The book I'm currently writing, Temptation, takes place during the Season, 1819. To that end, here is a glimpse of the fashions for May.

ENGLISH. No. 1.--Walking Dress.
Pelisse of light fawn-coloured twilled sarsnet, or satin, elegantly ornamented with trimming of the same en languettes, each languette beautifully ornamented with a rich yet light trimming of pink and black, with ornamental buttons. Large promenade bonnet of light fawn-colour, trimmed to correspond with the pelisse, and worn over a cornette of fine lace. Fawn-coloured satin sandal boots, and Limerick gloves.*

*Taken from La Belle Assemblée, 1819

~Regency Wednesday~ A Queer Epitaph

While perusing the contents of the January 1818 issue of La Belle Assemblée, the following little tidbit caught my eye, making me chuckle. 

A Queer Epitaph*

On a tombstone in Lyme (America), there was a few years since, and perhaps is at this time, the following epitaph, said to be written by the person for whom it was inscribed : ─

A deacon, aged 58--58,

On earth no more is sarvin ;

He for a crown no longer waits,

Lyme's Captain Renald Marvin.

Tradition says that the above Captain Marvin, when young, courted one Betty Lee, a handsome hearty lass, whose father was violently opposed to the match. Every probable measure was taken to mollify the old gentleman, but all in vain. The young folks were as obstinate as the old one, and determined to have their own way. As in those good old times none could be matrimonially fettered without a previous manifesto, either from the mouth of the minister or nailed on the door of the meeting-house, they made choice of the latter method, and Renald wrote the following stanzas, which was nailed as aforesaid :─

Renald Marvin, Betsy Lee,

Do both intend to marry ;

And though her dad opposed be,

No longer can they tarry.

Tradition further says that the poetical abilities thus displayed had such an effect on dad, that he shortly after consented that Renald and Betty should become one flesh. 

*Taken verbatim from La Belle Assemblée, January 1818.

~Regency Wednesday~ March 1818

English fashion for March 1818: 

Winter Carriage Costume. Round dress of fine cambric muslin, superbly embroidered round the border in three distinct rows. Pelisse of rich Tobine silk striped, of Christmas holly-berry colour and bright green grass, trimmed round the collar, cuffs, and down the front with very broad swansdown. Cambridge hat of green satin, ornamented with white ribband, edged with holly-berry red, surmounted by a very full plume of white ostrich feathers. Triple ruff of fine lace; holly-berry velvet ridicule, with clasp and ornaments of gold. Limerick gloves, and white kid half boots.*

*La Belle Assemblée, March 1818.

~Regency Wednesday~ 1818 Fashion

In honor of the upcoming release of my 5th novel, Deception, "Regency Wednesday" will be dedicated to anything and everything related to Deception. The story takes place in London, 1818, early in the Season.

Today's post is the fashion of the time, specifically the summer fashions.

Pictured here are two fashion plates from the July issue of La Belle Assemblée.

Descriptions as taken from La Belle Assemblée:

"Summer Recess Ball Dress. Frock of white crape, Venetian gauze, or fine net, richly embellished at the border with small double Indian roses of a beautiful pink colour, and mingled with leaves of crape and pearls: the body finished in the Oriental style, with short sleeves, which approach nearer to the elbow than formerly, and which are finished by a trimming of broad blond. The head-dress consists of a double wreath of Indian roses, interspersed with the braids of hair that are wound round the summit of the head. White satin shoes and white kid gloves."

"Parisian Bonnets. Fig.1 represents transparent bonnets of crape or net, crowned with bouquets of flowers, and trimmed at the edges with broad blond and a cordon or flowers. Fig.2 represents bonnets of satin or gros de Naples, both white and coloured, crowned with a profusion of lilacs or small double poppies."

*La Belle Assemblée, 1818 (Google book)
**Disclaimer: I wrote Deception in 2003. Since writing it, I have learned more about the specific time in which it takes place. While the biggest of these flaws I have tried to correct, I may have missed some of the smaller ones.